January 8, 2015

Controversies of Shanghai

After spending almost 3 weeks in the Philippines, it was time to move on to our  next and final destination - Shanghai, China. 
We only had 3 days left, one of which we needed to travel from Cebu City to Manila and then to Shanghai, leaving us with 2 full days in Shanghai itself. Planning-wise it was perfect, as in this case we didn't need a Chinese visa for a stay of less than 72 hours. 

Shanghai International airport is quite empty at night, since most of the flights arrive before 11 pm. Our flight was apparently one of the last ones in, with a delay of just under one hour.
The passport control took a bit longer than we expected. First the guy behind the desk thoroughly examined our passports himself. Then he called a lady supervisor, who started to ask us questions on how long we were planning to stay and if we had the onward flight booked in less than 72 hours. We said we did. She took our documents and disappeared for 20 minutes. When she finally came back, she started to discuss something with the guy in Chinese. Her face expression was such, that we started to get nervous, already thinking how we were going to spent the next 3 days in the airport transfer zone. 
However, we had it completely wrong. When she finished talking to the guy and left, without so much as looking at us, the guy smiled and 5 minutes later we had our passports back with the temporary visa and a piece of paper in English, saying that we are not allowed to travel any further than Shanghai with the transit visa given. We assured him that we will not and left.
Outside there was a waiting line for the taxis. Lucky for us, it was by far not as long as in Manila, so we didn't have to wait very long. 
The taxi-driver we got spoke no English at all, but I was expecting that so we showed him the hotel's name and address written in Chinese. He looked at the name and started to say something in Chinese back to us. From what we could guess, he still didn't know exactly where we needed to go... We were saved by the maps.me app that I downloaded on my phone. It has the most detailed maps that work offline and even makes routes to get from one destination to another in any country in the world. 
So, we switched it on and used it as the GPS to show the driver where we needed to go. The app got us exactly in the right place. 
Our hotel didn't look like much from the outside and I had some doubts booking it earlier, but inside it turned out to be great and we loved our two-level room with the stairs.
The next morning we decided to start with the touristy stuff and see where that will take us. Our hotel was located just on the edge of the area where most of the places of interest were, so we could just walk around everywhere. 
The weather was fantastic, very sunny, but also very cold and we didn't have the winter jackets with us. Another plus of walking was that it kept us warm. 
Downtown here is quite modern and if it wasn't for the signs in Chinese, you would never say that you are in China. Most of the buildings looked quite European.
We decided to walk along the river to The Bund and the embankment promenade. 
The bridge is a popular place for weddings.
We were surprised to see the Russian Embassy right in the middle. Looks very out of place here. 
From The Bund's corner you can see the famous view of the Shanghai Skyline. Most of the times Shanghai is very foggy and you can't always see all the buildings, but we were lucky. 
When we got to the river, it was filled with cargo barges sailing in every direction. We figured that they probably had specific time frames during the day to sail through the city center. 
Despite the fact that it was Thursday, the embankment promenade was busy with people- tourists, students, mostly all of them Chinese, we didn't see many European faces around. The police was patrolling the place in funny little cars.  
Along the promenade there is a whole line-up of massive office buildings. We figured that they were some government places, because each of them had at least 2 national flags on the roof.  
The view of the financial center on the other side is really great.
A "must have" pic :-) 
From The Bund we started walking towards the old downtown and the surroundings became completely different. It's really funny to see how the city here changes completely, within the 200 meters walking distance.
The old town looked like it just emerged from the picture in the book. The buildings are traditional Chinese, I think they are really old, but probably completely restored over the recent years. 
The tea-house... Before coming here, we read that tourists need to be careful not to fall for the "tea ceremony" scam. What they do is they approach you as a couple of students, who want to practice their English. After chatting with you for some time, they invite you to have some tea, and then demand you pay for it, asking for ridiculously high fee and threatening to call the police if you don't. 
We were stopped here too by a guy and two girls that first asked us to take the picture of them together. Even though we read about the scam, we didn't figured it out at first. Only after they suggested to go and have some tea, we knew who they were... 
Later, we were approached again a couple of times, but we knew better and just ignored everybody. 
People are standing in line to feed the fish :-)
In the middle of the old town there is a huge park and the collection of old buildings that once were a part of the royal court. They are nice to see, but not very exciting. We liked the calligraphy hall and the jade shop. 
What we really liked about the architecture in China is the attention to details, the amount of work that goes into each carving, each statue. 
And this work is never ending.
Most of the old buildings here are now part of a huge shopping mall that sells souvenirs, candies, tea, and other touristy stuff.
Shanghai's oldest temple is here as well, and can be visited for a very small fee. We were happy that in China the tickets to touristy places don't differ in price for the locals and the foreigners, like they always do in, for example, India
The opposite side of the old town turned out to be more colorful and "Chinese" then the one we entered through. 
The old town has multiple entries, through the old city gates. Now they are mostly decorative. The sleeping quarters start right outside the gates. 
At this point we got really hungry and decided to get something to eat at the most local place we could find. Unfortunately for us, the menu here had no pictures in it and no one was speaking a word of English. We took a wild guess and just pointed at some hieroglyphs. Out of the 3 things we ordered one was quite good, but the other two were not. We still have no idea what we ate :-) 
When we left, we were both still hungry. On the way we saw some kind of self-service canteen where all dishes were already portioned and you only needed to point at the ones you want. The prices here were immediately 3 times higher than in the previous place, but at least we could see what we were choosing. It wasn't the best food we ever had, but it was OK comparing to the first place. 
After two failed attempts to get something great to eat, we decided to walk towards the People's Square and to see if we will have more luck finding better food there. 
To get from the old town to the square you need to walk about an hour, mostly through the residential area.  
On the corner of one of the streets we saw people making shahslyk, exactly the same way they make it back home, in Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan. Dima was completely happy and, finally, no longer hungry. 
They were also making the bread we love. We bought some to go))
By the time we got to the People's square and the modern shopping district, it was already getting dark. 
We immediately spotted the Radisson Hotel and what looked like a 360-degree view bar on top of it.   
The main shopping street was going all the way to The Bund, so we decided to first go back to where we started this morning to take some pics of the night skyline, and then come back to the bar for some cocktails. 
The skyline at night looks even more beautiful. It was a good idea to go and photograph it that day, because the next day all the lights where out, and none of the building were visible in the dark.
It took us more than an hour to go all the way to The Bund and back. Altogether, we walked over 23 km that day, so we were happy to finally sit down, relax and enjoy the awesome view from the top. 

January 7, 2015

Cebu City - last days in the Philippines (and conclusions)

At the end of our stay on Panglao, we were quite fed up with a slow island lifestyle and were craving  for some action. So, when the time came to leave, we were happy to do so. 
Considering that the ferry connection between Panglao and Cebu City is not the most reliable one and in case of the storm, you can easily get stuck on the island, we decided to go to Cebu City 1 day earlier than necessary. Just in case there will be a typhoon again :-) Besides, the change of scenery was very welcome.
Our last night on the island we met Sergey and Tatyana, a couple from Voronezh, Russia that had the same plans as we did. We decided to travel together and merge our efforts arranging the taxi for next day.  
The guesthouse owner agreed to give us a lift to town for a reasonable price and half an hour later the four of us arrived to Tagbilaran city port. The weather was great and our boat departed as scheduled, without any delays.
Once arrived to the same terminal in Cebu City that we left from 10 days earlier, we went outside to get a taxi. A couple of locals were "managing" the people getting taxis. At first we thought that they were doing it for a fee, but we were wrong. They did helped us get a car with a meter instead of fix price and the four if us went to the hotel that Dima and I booked in advance. Sergey and Ira didn't have a hotel yet, so we wanted to see if ours would still have rooms available, otherwise we would find a hotel for them nearby.  
Our turned out to be fully booked, but the one around the corner had plenty if rooms and we arranged for Sergey and Ira stay there. 


Because of the morning flight to Manila the next day, we only had the afternoon and the evening to see Cebu City. 
There are 3 famous things in Cebu that are considered as "must see": Santo Niño de Cebú, the Magellan's cross and the old fort. We decided to start with the fort, and walk our way up to the city center. 
The remains of Fort San Pedro didn't make an impression, they are just as most of the forts we saw in the Philippines. 
However, it was interesting to see the story of the place depicted on it's walls and to learn about the role it played in the history of the island and of the Philippines. 
Apparently, when the fort was built the first time around, in the mid 16th century, it was made of wood. Two centuries later it was re-built using stones, but kept it's unusual triangular shape. Judging by the photos, the wooden version was quite impressive.  
Just a couple of hundred meters from the fort, in the middle of the small square, another relic from the middle ages can be found - the Magellan's Cross. It's a Christian cross planted by Ferdinand Magellan, back in 16th century, when he first came to the Philippines. 
The cross is housed in a chapel and the sign below says that it is the original cross, encased inside the wooden case to protect it from the damage.
Don't know if that is true, but many people here believe that it is and that it has some magical powers. We saw some of them praying inside and walking circles around it.
We saw a couple of statues outside of (I am guessing) some Philippine leaders, and we had to laugh because they reminded us of the Lenin statues we had in USSR, when it still existed. The statues could have been twins, with the hand and all :-))) Very communist.
Another 100 meters from the cross is the Basilica del Santo Niño, a huge grey-stoned cathedral, with a vast crowd trying to get in. Apparently, the entrance to the cathedral is a paradise for pickpockets, as there are signs everywhere warning that you can very easy loose your wallets and other valuables. 
The cathedral is huge and very beautiful inside. 
At some point you inevitably run into a long line of slow moving people. They are waiting to see the Santo Niño - oldest religious relic in the Philippines. You can easily lose 30-40 minutes waiting. I decided not to, and wanted to skip the whole line all together by going around and somehow ended up at the statue anyway, only from the other side, where people usually exit... 
It's almost 500 years old and is a symbol of the beginning of Christianity in the Philippines. 
Inside the cathedral there is also a very nice garden with lot's of statues depicting historical figures.
Outside, in front of the cathedral, there is big square with an altar, where the masses are being held. Apparently the cathedral can't fit all the people willing to go to a mass, so they had to find a solution.    
When we walked out, the mass was just starting. 
I read somewhere that during religious holidays this square gets so full that it becomes a sea of people and looks like this (pic by Wordpress.
When we left the cathedral it was already dark outside and we decided to slowly start walking back towards the hotel. 
Cebu city center is not a very interesting place to be. It's mostly office buildings, usual larger and smaller shops, street vendors and a night markets.
The traffic is quite intense but the police is doing it's best to keep it organized. 
This intersection is the start of the night market, the street get's closed off for all traffic and within 10-15 minutes it gets filled in with stalls, selling all kinds of stuff.
Once at the hotel, we said good bye to Sergey and Ira, as from here we were going our separate ways. They were catching a plane to Thailand and further to Koh Samui and we were starting our way back: first to Manila, then to Shanghai. The plan was to stay in Shanghai for 2.5 days before going back home to Amsterdam.

Conclusion on the Philippines:
Manila is a city that can and should be avoided, absolutely nothing will be missed if you decide to skip it altogether.  
We loved travelling through the mountains and hills of the North Luzon; hiking to the crater of volcano on Mt. Pinatubo, as well as the trek around Sagada and gorgeous Banaue/Batad Rice Terraces. We did made a small mistake staying in Baguio for 2 nights, but on the other hand it gave us the opportunity to re-charge between the treks.  
In general we enjoyed the Island Hopping experience. 
Despite the rainy start, Boracay was everything we expected - sun, sea and lot's off cocktails, it's definitely a place worth coming to and staying for a couple of days. 
Our stay on Panglao and Bohol was too long, we should have made it a shorter. A total of 4-5 days would have been more than enough. Unfortunately the weather and the absence of flights made our stay longer than anticipated. On the positive note, we did have a great "first time in our life" New Year celebration on the beach, so it wasn't bad at all, just got a bit boring at the end
We very much regret the fact that because of the circumstances we didn't get the chance to see Palawan Island and El Nido, but this is something to do next time we will be in the Philippines.

Next: Controversies of Shanghai

January 3, 2015

New Year on Panglao, Balicasag and Virgin Islands

December 31  was gorgeous on Panglao, so we spent the whole day on the beach. It was really nice to be just lazy and drink cocktails all day long. 
Click on the pic to see large photos
In the evening, we decided to go to dinner a bit later than usual, so that we can stay there all the way till midnight and celebrate the coming of 2015 on the beach. We actually didn't expect much after the last years New Year's Eve in Kathmandu
At 10:30 pm there was still not much going on. 
However, closer to midnight it started to get busier and busier. Until at some point the whole stretch of the beach was filled with people - tourists and locals. The larger resorts were preparing fireworks and everybody got excited.
Then, the moment came: 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, ... And the whole island exploded with fireworks :-)
Happy New Year 2015!!! 
We stayed on the beach, drinking my favorite Mango Daiquiri. 

The next day we had to decide if we will be going to another island - Palawan. We were planning to do so, but after informing about the tickets, it turned out that the cheap ones were all sold out and the ones left were somewhere around 250 euros (!) per person. So we decided to stay and do some island hoping in the area. 
The two nearest ones were Balicasag, where we could do some snorkeling on the coral reefs surrounding the island, and the Virgin Island, which we had no info about. 
The island hoping usually starts just before 6 am, with the boat leaving from Panglao towards Balicasag. On the way, the tourists are promised to see the dolphins.
When we started sailing away the sun was just coming up.
The boat can be either hired privately or you can join a group. Ours was 6 people, really fun guys - two Australians and a French couple.
At first, everything was going great and we were enjoying the views of Panglao from the water.
The boat owner said that once we will see Balicasag, we should watch out for the dolphins.
There were other boats in the area, and when you could see them going to the same spot all at once, that meant that some dolphins were spotted there.
We were all excited to get there, and everybody had their cameras out and ready, when... the boat's motor just stopped became really silent. At first, we thought that the boat owner switched it off on purpose not to scare the dolphins away, but then we saw his face and it was clear - we will not be seeing any dolphins any time soon.
After several hopeless attempts to start the motor running, he gave up and tried to get someone to tow us to the island. 
About 15 minutes later we were all roped up and being towed away. 
The boat owner said that he will try to fix the motor while we will be snorkeling. We could already see Balicasag on the horizon. 
It's a very small oval shaped island just 2 kilometers in diameter, but it has one of the most beautiful reefs around it, making the place a very popular tourist spot. Because we were towed, we got to the island as one of the last. We could already see the crowd of people snorkeling a bit further away. 
The snorkeling was awesome, we've never done it before and we loved it very much. The reefs were sooo full of all kind of different fishes and corrals and turtles. Too bad we didn't have the underwater camera with us for the pics! 
Anyway, now that we both became big fans of snorkeling, I am sure will have some nice underwater photos to share in the near future. 
All together we snorkeled for about an hour, until we both started to get dizzy, so we went back to the island. 
At this point the boat owner told us the good news about being able to fix the engine and that we could be on our way to the Virgin Island.  
The Virgin island turned out to be stretch of white sand middle in the ocean with no vegetation but a huge number of starfish and sea hedgehogs in the shallow water. 
We so many stars but Dima refused to pick them up, except for this one :-)
Because the waters are so shallow, it's difficult to get to and from the island without getting stuck on a shoal. Luckily, most of the locals know their way around the dangerous places and it's fun to see all boats lined up and swirling one after the other. 
On the way back it started to rain and the waves became really high, so much that I was getting seasick. But once we got closer to Panglao, the weather turned nice again and by the time we docked, it was perfectly sunny. 
Spending the rest of the afternoon on the beach was a perfect ending to a busy day. 

Because we decided not to go to Palawan, we spent the rest of the week here - swimming, walking, biking, and just enjoying the holidays. To be totally honest, we did get quite bored at the end and were happy when it was time to go back to Cebu City and then to take the flight to our final destination of the trip - Shanghai, China. 
Cheers!