December 31, 2014

Bohol

As mentioned in the previous post, our plan next day was to explore the neighboring Bohol Island. However, the weather had a different plan, and when we woke up the next morning, it was pouring rain outside. 
At first we still had hope that it was one of those quick tropical storms that will pass in an hour, but then our guesthouse owner said that the typhoon warning was issued for the whole day. We had nothing else to do but to stay in and be bored. 
We didn't have any food in the room and still needed to eat, so after borrowing two colorful umbrellas from the owner, we went to our restaurant on the beach. It was almost empty but working nonetheless. 
Despite the typhoon warning, there was almost no wind, just a lot of rain. While we were eating the rain became less intense for a short time and we decided to walk on the beach a little.
Click on the pic to see large photos
Some people were still swimming despite any warnings :-)
Then it started to rain hard again and we went back, ending up spending the whole day in our little hut. Just one day of rain made us feel like this weather would never end, so we were really hoping that the it will improve the next day.

And luckily for us it did!
The next morning, the sun was shining intensely and there were blue skies as far as we could see. So, we rented a motorbike again and started heading for Bohol. The places we wanted to see that day were the Chocolate Hills and the Tarsier Sanctuary. It was about 65 km to the hills, so we figured it will take us about 1,5-2 hours to get there. 
Riding a motorbike is the perfect way to explore the islands.
You can take all the small roads and really see where and how people live. 
Half way to the hills we saw a bunch of people in the middle of the road. When we got closer, it turned out that because the heavy rains all day yesterday, the local river flooded the road and the water level was too high for the motorbikes to pass.
The first flooded part we saw wasn't too bad, and some motorbikes were actually high enough to pass, but it turned out that ahead there were 2 more parts of the road that were flooded so much more, that even the cars couldn't pass through. The was one more alternative road to the hills further away, but the locals standing around said that it's flooded as well...
Also while we were standing there, deciding on what to do, one of the motorbikes died trying to get across. So, we decided to leave the idea of going to the hills today and go to see tarsiers instead. For that we needed to take the unpaved road in the palm forest, but at least it was too far away from the river to be flooded.
It was a bumpy, but quite beautiful ride. I think we were probably the first tourists to ever take this road, because the locals from the villages we passed were staring at us like they've never seen a tourist before. 
Still, they are so very friendly, because when at some point we stopped to look at the map, all passing by people also stopped to ask if we were OK and if we needed any help. So sweet!
It took almost an hour to ride 12 km on that road but we made it in the end.
The tarsiers are very rare and there are only a few of them in the sanctuary. They are nocturnal animals, so we were lucky to see one awake and up close.
Apparently the little guys are VERY vulnerable and can even commit suicide (!!) when they are upset. Talking about being sensitive to everything :-) 
After seeing the tarsier sanctuary we decided to ride back to the guest house; we lost so much time on detour that it was about to get dark soon.
On the way, we stopped at the bakery we found earlier and bought all kinds of freshly baked pastries to take with to watch the sunset. Dima was very happy!
And the sunset set was gorgeous too :-) 
The next day we decided to try and get to the Chocolate Hills again. There was no rain that night and we figured that the water should subside already.
When we got to the same point where we got stuck the day before the water was completely gone and that was good. But as we drove further we were shocked to see the scale of destruction the flood caused.
Houses, roads, parks, everything was covered with a thick layer of mud.
Really horrible to see... These were poor people already, but even those little belongings they had, were probably permanently destroyed by the flood. 
Some were i bit more lucky, but most of the houses were in very bad shape. It was so strange to see so much damage here, and not even a trace of damage from heavy rains in the place where we were staying.
Although later we met a couple of people from the resorts that were directly on the beach and they told us that their rooms were flooded too.
Also the roads were covered with thick layer of mud, making them very slippery and dangerous. We saw a couple of motorbikes just sliding all of a sudden and falling right in the middle of the road. We were lucky to get through without ending up in the mud, but it was scary. 
Further into the hills the roads became more or less dry again and we could pick up the speed. 
At some point we were driving through the Bilar man made forest of Mahogany trees, which was quite impressive. 
It stretches for a couple of kilometers and the temperature here drops at least 10 degrees once you enter, compared to the rest of the island. 
Finally, after riding almost 3 hours, we got to the Chocolate Hills.
The road goes through the part of the hills and all the way to the parking lot and the viewing deck. 
The local kids signing Christmas Carols... ))
The best view of the hills is from the viewing deck, but it was partially destroyed by the last year's typhoon. They are rebuilding it now, but the top is still very much ruined. 
To get there, you need to clime quite a few stairs. Dima didn't want to, so I went alone.  
Once on the top, you get 360 degrees view of the hills. 
They look a lot like the pieces of the chocolate bar and once it gets really hot and the grass becomes brown, the resemblance is even bigger. 
There are more than 1300 of them shaped almost identically. 
The weather was still very nice, so we decided to come back to Alona beach and spend the rest of the day there.
Next: Panglao, Balicasag and Virgin Islands - Part 2

December 29, 2014

Panglao and Tagbilaran

Getting off Boracay proved to be as complex as getting on the island. Although our flight wasn't until 11:50 am, we still had to get up at around 6 am in the morning to ensure that we will be at the airport on time. 
The exact sequence of transportation was repeated, but then in reverse. After getting a tricycle to the pier, we boarded one of the boats. The difference this time was that we decided not pay ridiculous boat ticket price to one of the larger agencies, but do what locals do instead, take the fishing boat. 
Click on the pic to see large photos
A whole different experience being on the smaller one, but for the 10 minutes trip it's still a better option, may be feels less safe, but definitely cheaper. 
On the  other side we had no problems finding a minivan to the airport and 2 hours later we could check in. Our flight was delayed for an hour, but there was an excellent WiFi in the terminal, so we were not complaining.
The flight to Cebu City is about an hour and offers great views all the way there. 
When landed, we decided to go straight to the islands and leave exploring the Cebu City for when we will be taking the next flight.
The most visited islands in the area are Bohol and Panglao, and we decided to stay on Panglao, as it was suppose to have better beaches. To get there, we needed a ferry, so we got the taxi to the harbor.  
There are several ferries that operate the Cebu City - Panglao route and each of them normally departs from a different terminal. Lucky for us, they were renovating two of those terminals and therefore, all the ferries where leaving from the same place. Glad we didn't have to run from one terminal to the other, looking for the cheaper one.  
The downside was that there were huge crowds inside. 
After asking around at the tickets office we even managed to find the promo tickets for 50% of the price. Later we learned why. All the other ferries were departing on time and ours announced that they have no idea when the boat will arrive, but it will, they will depart as soon as possible... Very reassuring :-)
At that point it was too late to change the tickets, so we had no other choice but to wait. I was killing time writing the blog and Dima, together with the other passengers, was watching Filipino cartoons. By the looks of it, they were very funny!
About an hour and a half later they finally announced that we can board and the crowd moved from the terminal to the pier outside. It's a good thing we had the seats assigned, because by the time we would have gotten on the boat, we would probably only find some free space on the roof :-)
By the time we got to Tagbilaran, a town, closest to Panglao, it was already getting dark. 
When looking for information on where to stay, everybody was saying that a place to be on Panglao - is Alona Beach and that taking a minivan will be the easiest option to get there from the ferry. We asked around about the price, but they were way too high. Another option was to take a much slower tricycle, but we didn't feel happy at the idea being stuck in it for more than an hour. 
Not being able to decide, we then saw a couple of tourists loading their diving gear into the van. Out of curiosity, we asked where they were headed and whether they want to split the costs. It turned out that the van belonged to the hotel which was (according to Google) very near to the guest house that we booked a day before, and they agreed to drop us off free of charge. 
The whole time we were looking for our place, but saw nothing. So they eventually dropped us off on the main road, a couple of hundred meters before the hotel gate.  
It felt like we were in the middle of nowhere; it was pitch dark and no people around. We started walking back along the main road until we finally saw some people. A family was having a party and we asked them if they knew the guest house that we were suppose to stay in. After a 15 minute discussion they managed to figure out what we were looking for, it turned out that we were pronouncing the guest house name wrong, so they couldn't understand where we wanted to go. One of them agreed to take us to the place, which turned out to be very close by. However, because of a huge fence around and not even one sign, we simply passed it twice without seeing. 
We were both happy to finally get there, but then we saw "the room". Huge space with no windows, it looked really creepy... We said that there is no way we will be staying here! And we were definitely not the first ones, as the owners didn't look surprised by our very loud "no, no, no", and even didn't try to charge us for the first night, although they had a right to do so.  
Alona Beach was about 5 km further away, so we decided to take a chance of finding another place to stay there, at least for that night. The owner charged ridiculously much for dropping us of in Alona, but we were too tired to bargain and were not sure that we will find an alternative way of getting there at this hour.
Once at Alona Beach, we started to ask around for the room, but everything was full. At one point, some local guy heard us asking around and decided to join the search, probably hoping for the tip. Finally, after more than an hour of running from one place to another, we found a room in one of the hotels at the far end of the beach, but only for 1 night. 
It was better than nothing, and we figured that we will have a better chance of finding the room the next morning.
What we found wasn't great or cheap, but at least it had a bed and a shower and even a working AC. 

The next morning, I found a guest house nearby on booking.com, but after showing up there to check in, we were informed that there was a double booking and they can't accommodate us, despite the official confirmation of the reservation that we showed them. 
Clearly, we were not happy with the whole thing and threatened the owner to complain to booking.com and write a very, very bad review. It sounds silly, of course, but somehow it worked. The owner sighed, and then started to call around trying to arrange something.
One of his calls was successful and 15 minutes later we were at the gate of a very nice bamboo-hut motel. 
Our hut turned to be quite OK, it had no hot water in the shower, but WiFi was excellent :-)
After picking up our thing from the hotel we stayed in and settling in our charming hut, we went to the beach. After the whole stress of searching for the place to stay that morning, we had no desire but to hung out at the beach all day and just relax.
Alona Beach is very very small compared to the long beaches of Boracay. It has a stretch of sand just 1 km long and on average about 10 meters wide. Just 10 years ago, there were no tourists here at all, and then the place started to get attention. Hotels and restaurants took up almost all of the available space, leaving practically nothing of the beach itself. 
Despite the beach being very touristy, it's not at all busy. Most of the people come here to dive and the place is quite empty during the day. 
The water here is much warmer than on Boracay and far more clear and blue.
So we stayed at the beach all day until we couldn't swim anymore, because of all the boats that came back at the end of the day and started to park along the shore. 
The sunsets here are gorgeous!
The next day we decided to rent a motorbike and to drive around the island. Our guest house had them for rent and we arranged one for the next 3 days. The plan was to see Panglao first, then explore the Bohol island near by. 
There are only a couple of roads on Panglao, so you don't really need a map to get around. There is one road that is making a circle along the island's shore and we decided to start with this one. 
Aside from funny little houses, a couple of larger resorts, one church and a huge quantity of palm trees in all shapes and sizes, there isn't much else to see here. This is how the "main square" of the "island's capital" looks like.
Just opposite to the church, they have a small bakery that bakes the most delicious buns and cookies. Somehow, from outside you can't see it, but the tasty smell if fresh bread is everywhere.
The only Panglao place of interest we could find in the guide was the Hinagdanan cave.  

The legend goes that some guy accidentally stumbled on the hole in the ground and decided to check it out by throwing a rock into it. He was surprised to hear a splash. Eventually, he found a large cave with the lake inside, just bellow the ground.

He built a ladder to get in and started to charge the local fools money to see the miracle.
Nowadays there are still plenty of fools tourists willing to see it. The cave is small but quite nice.

The locals are now exploring the cave's popularity. By the way, Filipinos have a different type of mango here - it's smaller, completely yellow and super tasty!


After the cave, we wanted to use the opportunity of having a motorbike to see if we can find a more interesting beach than Alona. It took us just an hour and a half to drive around the island and to conclude that Alona was our only option. We did find a couple of other places, but they weren't impressively looking . 

After circling the island we decided to check out Tagbilaran, the town we arrived to on a ferry from Cebu City. It was dark when we were driving through it a couple of days earlier, so we didn't really see much. 
Tagbilaran is situated on Bohol island, not on Panglao, but the two islands are connected by the bridge. 
The area around reminded of Mekong river in Vietnam with all the houses built on stilts along the shore line. 
The town itself is not interesting at all. It has a standard market place, 
huge number of ugly shopping malls 
and that's about it. 
We had an idea of finding a place to eat here, rather than at Alona Beach, but we couldn't... Except for the fast food chains, there were absolutely no other places to eat. 
The sun started to set, so we went back as we didn't really want to drive in the dark. 

Alona Beach area has a large number of eating facilities. 
They have almost identical food, with very little variation in menu choices and huge difference in prices. The ones directly on the beach being most expensive, of course, and the cheaper ones further away. Interestingly enough, the quality of the food also drops as the distance away from the water increases; usually it's the other way around. We found a restaurant that was run by a German lady and decided to stick with it. We did the same in Thailand on an earlier trip and weren't disappointed.
Most of restaurants offer a large choice of fresh fish and BBQ.
Dima found his new favorite beer size - 1 liter bottles :-) And it became a steady beverage choice for him at breakfasts, lunches and diners for the rest of our stay here.
The next day we  were planning to take the motorbike again to see Bohol, but it turned out that the weather had a different plan of its own.

Next: Bohol